This sense of quiet is not just a product of the season. It’s a reflection of Ibiza’s unique character, a place where the rhythm of life is slower, and the pace of change is more measured. Ibiza’s history is steeped in ancient traditions and cultural heritage. The island’s roots run deep, with evidence of human presence dating back to the Paleolithic era.
I was immersed in the world of Ibiza’s electronic music scene, but I never truly understood the island’s soul. I was a cog in the machine, a part of the industry, but I never felt connected to the island itself. The island’s beauty, its history, and its culture were all hidden from me.
This was when San Antonio’s Café del Mar was not only a place to sip beer while watching the sunset but also had its own series of best-selling compilation albums that almost single-handedly popularised the concept of “chillout music”. It was the era of Sky TV’s messy documentary series Ibiza Uncovered, of sensationalist tabloid stories about Radio 1 DJs and pop stars going missing after wild benders. Ibiza hadn’t yet scrubbed up its reputation. The images of agroturismos, yoga retreats and luxury holidays had yet to take hold in the imagination of the British public. From the hilly forests of the north to the views of the south – it is easy to feel like you have passed into another world
During this time I sold tickets at bars in San Antonio and Ibiza Town. I was a lost and insecure young person, fresh from overthinking my way through a master’s degree I’d only taken to delay joining the real world. I was increasingly dependent on alcohol and drugs until, in 1999, I decided to get healthy. I began running every morning. I quit drugs. I got more sleep. But things didn’t stay stable for long – I spiralled and had to return home. View image in fullscreen A foam party in an Ibizan nightclub. Photograph: Yves Forestier/Sygma/Getty Images Many years later, after another spell of abusing alcohol, I had the therapy I should have had back then. A key theme was facing up to my past, so I decided to revisit Ibiza, but this time out of season. The plan was to drive through France so we could take our dogs. And so this was a different me visiting what had become a different place with the safety of my favourite people and animals around me.
We got happily lost amid the streets of Dalt Vila, Ibiza’s fortified old town, which is now a Unesco world heritage site; we ate the best meal at a restaurant called Sharmakanda in the north (the edamame hummus is incredible); we wandered around the small but well-curated contemporary art museum; we went go-karting; we went horse riding; we went to Wild Beets vegan cafe in Santa Gertrudis. We did many things I’d never have considered doing when I lived here. Some things weren’t quite so different. We danced. We went to the night market at Las Dalias, where everyone from babies to octogenarians dances under the stars to techno played by ageing German DJs. This feels close to the first era of clubbing here in the 70s, when entrance fees were low, roofs were nonexistent and the spirit was free. It was genuinely healing to return here, to see the place where I’d nearly died.
View image in fullscreen Joni Mitchell on Ibiza in 1971. Photograph: Karl Ferris And it sparked an idea for a novel – one that could hopefully do justice to the different aspects of life here. Over the next two years, we came back a few more times. I justified this in the name of “research”, and actually did learn a lot that could be used in the book. But we also holidayed. We hiked. We ate. We tried to improve our Spanish. We even – soberly, happily – raved. But I also saw problems I’d never noticed in my hedonistic youth.
From the vibrant nightlife scene to the tranquil beaches, Ibiza offers a diverse range of experiences. The island’s history, culture, and natural beauty are intertwined, creating a unique and captivating atmosphere. The island’s history is rich and diverse, dating back to prehistoric times.
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* Ibiza’s tourism industry has been a major driver of economic growth, but it has also led to a complex relationship between locals and tourists. * The island’s history of poverty and its reliance on tourism has created a unique dynamic between the two groups. * The impact of tourism on Ibiza has been positive in the past, but it has become increasingly negative in recent years.
Las Dalias is a popular tourist destination, but it’s also a place where many people struggle to make ends meet. The Las Dalias night market is a prime example of this struggle. The market is a vibrant hub of activity, attracting tourists and locals alike. However, many vendors and workers struggle to earn a living wage.
The Posidonia seagrass meadow is a complex ecosystem, a vast underwater forest teeming with life. It is a single organism, a giant, interconnected network of roots and shoots that spans across the seabed. This network is so extensive that it can be seen from the air.
This is a call to action, a plea for a more sustainable and harmonious relationship with the natural world. It’s not just about protecting the environment, but about fostering a sense of responsibility and appreciation for the delicate balance of life. The beauty of the natural world is a powerful force that can inspire us to act.
